Commander Frank Kauzlarich, who served in the Navy during World War II, the Korean War, and Vietnam. Although he did not know his grandfather well, the author collects objects related to his grandfather’s service, such as lighters with his command’s insignia, belt buckles, and postcards.

He has even dreamed of traveling to Japan to explore where his grandfather once lived. Unfortunately, the author does not know what happened to his grandfather’s watches, but he imagines that he may have worn an early Rolex Submariner or a “Dirty Dozen” military watch. For the author, finding his grandfather’s watch would be a tangible way to connect with the man he never knew, and with history itself.

Military history holds great significance for many people, including myself. Preserving military history is crucial to differentiate between military-provenance watches and watches created solely for aesthetic or “tacti-cool” purposes. Genuine military watches hold historical value and rarity and should be protected for future generations while acknowledging their monetary value. In contrast, many watches on the market are simply military cosplay or attempts to mimic the military style.

There are watches with genuine military roots that are commissioned by the military, such as the Hamilton Khaki Field or Breguet Type XX. These watches have evolved over the years while maintaining their original DNA. From trench watches that started the wristwatch revolution to the Rolex Submariner and everything in between, there is a vast range of military timepieces.

If one seeks advice on what watches actually work in the field, Cole Pennington’s article “Skip The Watches That Pay Homage To The Military – And Get The Marathon They Actually Use” can be a helpful resource.

Some watches coated in black or green, made of ceramic or carbon, can aesthetically represent the influence military life has had on personal style. Military clothing, such as camo, cargo pants, and bomber jackets, has also influenced civilian fashion. While these items have become cultural icons, placing a unit’s insignia on a modern watch can imply a direct correlation with active-duty military members. I believe this line should not be crossed.

However, there are companies that create military watches in the right way, such as Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin released a new dive watch in partnership with One More Wave, a non-profit founded by former US Navy SEAL Alexander West. The non-profit provides wounded and disabled veterans with customized surfing equipment and community for surfing. Ulysse Nardin raised money through sales of their previous watch with One More Wave and provided donations to the non-profit. This partnership involved the military and veterans communities in watches in a genuine way.

Previously, Ulysse Nardin and One More Wave collaborated on a massive 46mm, 1,000m water-resistant, titanium-cased Deep Dive model with bright yellow accents. This watch was similar to most Spec Ops-styled watches in the past, blacked out and overbuilt. It was the type of watch you would expect to get if a group of actual Navy SEALs were tasked with making the toughest-looking watch.

Ulysse Nardin’s Chief Product Officer, Jean-Christophe Sabatier, worked with Ulysse Nardin America President Francois-Xavier Hotier and members of the non-profit organization One More Wave to create a limited-edition watch called the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer “One More Wave”. The design process involved Sabatier visiting the Coronado base where SEALs train and receiving input from active-duty SEALs.

The second watch in the series features a lighter grey strap and turquoise accents, inspired by a Porsche color palette and the colors used by One More Wave in their branding, and is meant to convey a “California cool” vibe that could be worn by a business executive.

The watch maintains a military-inspired aesthetic while also acknowledging the complexity of Navy SEALs beyond their alpha male stereotype. Ulysse Nardin guarantees a baseline level of funding for One More Wave to buy equipment for veterans, and the partnership has raised $250,000 since 2019.

The watch is not branded with a SEAL trident, instead referencing military heritage and tradition. The watch is seen as an authentic military-inspired watch that tells an important story of military life, transition to civilian life, and the legacy of service to one’s country.

The use of military insignia on watches has become a controversial issue. While some watches are built to military specification and made in collaboration with the military, using the insignia of active combat units or special forces teams without an obvious connection is often considered inappropriate.

Several companies, including Bremont, Breitling, Tudor, and IWC, have made “unit watches” available only to people in those units, showing real respect for active-duty servicemembers. These service members and their colleagues are the ones who have earned the right to wear that emblem with pride.

Rolex issued a special-order limited edition of the Explorer II ref. 216570 in 2012, only available for purchase by active members of the British Special Air Service, featuring the SAS motto Who Dares Wins and the SAS logo. Some of these watches have come to market, but the logo is hidden, and its creation came from the right place.

However, using military insignia on watches made through commercial arrangements is controversial. Wearing a watch with a US Navy SEAL trident on the dial in a SEAL hangout may be considered disrespectful by some SEALs who put their blood, sweat, and tears into earning that trident and lost “brothers” in training or on deployment.

Some argue that these watches are “stolen valor,” a term for military impostors who lie about their military service. However, most people agree that it is not a crime, but it may be considered in bad taste. When it comes to modern military-related watches, buyers should consider what draws them in and whether their intentions are respectful.

Many of these watches support good causes, such as museums or veterans groups, but buyers can also donate directly. If someone served or has a loved one who served, owning a military-provenance watch may hold special meaning.

Overall, the controversy comes down to intention. While some military-related watches are made with respect and to support good causes, others may be seen as inappropriate or disrespectful.

Regardless of the situation, I remain hopeful that other watch brands will follow in Ulysse Nardin’s footsteps and find innovative ways to pay tribute to the past while still being relevant today.